“Merkato”, The Home of Two Religions
During the Jumaa prayers, Islamic parching (hutba) will be presented by the Imam. Sometimes it coincides with the sound of the Mass prayers from the church. The faithful will be disturbed by a mingled and distorted voice from the two loud speakers. St. Raguel’s Church has a big building on one side of the fence. The shops in the building exhibit the same confusion.
(Mohamed Selman-Addis Ababa)
This land, Ethiopia, is a piece of land on which the fear of God (Taqwa, in Arabic) overshadows; if anyone wants to prove this, just visit Piassa and Merakato, where gold is being sold like a pile of grain. I remember one of Addis Neger Newspaper’s articles titled, “Why Do The Ethiopian Poor Not Rob?”–that article had listed “the fear of God” as one reason why the Ethiopian poor do not rob.
There is a saying about the skills of the Merkato thieves: “they can steal your tattoo without touching you”. But these same thieves are known for one thing–they will return your useful documents if they find them in their loot, and try never to kill while stealing. I think these guys would prefer not to steal for their living. What can I say, I am proud of my country’s God-fearing thieves!
Ethiopia is recorded in both of the holy books of the great religions. Repeatedly, while we cannot find the US or the UK even once, Ethiopia is known for giving refuge to the disciples (Sahabas) of the Prophet Mohammed in the 7th century. When we speak about Ethiopia being named in the Bible repeatedly, we have to know that it includes Merkato–just because Merkato is found in Ethiopia.
Among my childhood memories are the “thief beating scenes” in the great Anwar mosque. In the moment when the barefoot faithful go down and up in an act of worship, the shoe thieves are on duty. Some unfortunate thieves will be caught by the faithful and dealt mob justice. Everyone tries to beat the unfortunate thief at least once. Watching heavy people girding up their ceremonial robes to use their hidden acrobatic skills gave me a secret pleasure. These scenes also gave me a chance to contribute to the beating. I liked this scene so much that I even invited my Christian friends to watch it.
They followed me to the mosque, for they also liked this ‘ritual’ In my childhood home, Merkato, even if they were not many, I had Christian neighbors. As the famous song of Teddy Afro goes, “Is it not Raguel (the church), Anwar’s (the mosque) neighbor?” When the time came for Ramadan fasting, our friendship strengthened. We celebrated the “Iftir” feast together. At dusk we went to my home to share the dates, the Asambusa, and sometimes the soup ready for the evening feast. They even sometimes helped me keep the fast by not eating their breakfast until mid-day (of course, this may sometimes have been because they lacked something to eat). We sometimes made fun of each other’s fasting cultures. They teased me, saying, “What is the difficulty in fasting in the day after eating in the night?” “How could you call this a fast since you eat shiro and lentils?” I remember that I was always the winner because my friends ate meat and other animals products so rarely that it was easy for me to mock them in return, chiding, “you are always in the Lent season!”
My friends were happy during Ramadan because we could buy dates and enjoy them. They also repaid me during their Epiphany and Buhe celebrations. I was with them, playing the harmonica, on the day of Epiphany. The celebration of Buhe was also, for us, a day on which we collected money by singing the season’s traditional songs. It was only much later that I discovered that Buhe has a religious meaning. We celebrated those days not as religious holy days in which we acquired spiritual benefits; rather, we celebrated them as cultural feasts.
I have no idea how the word “compromise” started to be used in framing the Muslim and Christian relations in Ethiopia. In my understanding, the Muslims and Christians in Ethiopia live together with love rather than compromise. I don’t like this word when it is applied in this context. I can clearly recall those relations tied with love from my childhood memories. Most of my childhood friends are now slipping out of religion. But some are strengthening their faith.
Nowadays, I hear that singing the Buhe traditional songs is a Christian role. I urged by many not to have a friend who is from a different religion. The spiritual books I read sometimes have no love in them. Most of the literature contains warnings of the coming dangers of my religion and urgings of vigilence against them.
The books that comprise the counterpart are also as dangerous as these ones. Some priests are preaching argumentative sermons. The same messages are being printed on T shirts, CDs and books. My Merkato today is full of these controversies.
Ramadan and “Filseta”: one side of two coins
In these fasting seasons, when the faithful turn their face to their God and the business of the fasting days mounts, Merkato hosts mobile churches and mosques carried by vehicles. Sermons broadcast by different loudspeakers adds chaos to the already busy marketplace. Gospel songs and Menzumas (Islamic songs) spread without limits. These “mobile churches and mosques” Coax bystanders with their proclamations–“buy this cassette and you shall be saved!” Similarly, they strive to increase the numbers of people who go to “Genet” and “jenet’.
The 16-day fast of the Orthodox Church, Filseta Maryam (the assumption of Mary), is the second greatest fasting season–next to Lent.–for summoning the believers to church. Many Christians wearing netelas (Ethiopian traditional cloth) march to the church of St. Raguel. Multitudes of Muslim believers, who number a little greater than the Christians, also stride to the neighboring Anwar mosque. The reason for this is the Muslim’s fasting season, Ramadan. The priest’s mantle and the Muslim cape, the Christian netela and the Muslim robe go together until they reach their respective worship places. This scene reaches its highest peak on Fridays.
The narrow road that divides the church from the mosque permits passage for only one vehicle. The number of the faithful in the worshiping places, on the contrary, far exceeds the space in the church and in the mosque. Because of this, the believers are forced to use the main roads, especially on the central days of prayers. During the Ramadan Jumaa prayers, Anwar mosque–which swells to four or five times its usual attendance—appropriates a third of Merkato as a place of prayer. The southern Cinema Ras, the western Tana Mall, (and sometimes Mierab Hotel), the northern Gojam Berenda, and the eastern American Gibi, mark the ends of the gathering. This forces the Christians and the Muslims to stand together for prayers. The Ramadan evening prayer, “Terawih”, requires a little more time than usual. The faithful park their cars around both of the places of worship. They pray beside the fences of the church, even designating the verandahs of the church buildings as temporary places of worship. I always wish to take photos of these scenes.
During the Jumaa prayers, Islamic parching (hutba) will be presented by the Imam. Sometimes it coincides with the sound of the Mass prayers from the church. The faithful will be disturbed by a mingled and distorted voice from the two loud speakers. St. Raguel’s Church has a big building on one side of the fence. The shops in the building exhibit the same confusion. The upper part of the building houses a school named after the church, while the other floors are occupied by different shops. Most of the shops are selling mobile accessories and mobile phones; the western wing of the building has shops for bags, blankets and Christian songs. The shops of the eastern wing, however, are providing Islamic articles. The building café called “Henny Penny” provides Islamic foods and beverages for the Ramadan season. This cross-shaped building, owned by the church, has shops in which Islamic clothes and other articles for sale. Abaya, Niqab, Hijab, Bourqa, (all articles of Islamic women’s clothing) as well as some mats for Muslim prayers. Some may dismiss this as mere marketing but for me it holds greater significance” Our poor life style and our culture influence our social life, and this is apparent in our religions too. My mom never missed invitations to religious feasts in the house of a Christian priest. I do not remember choosing my childhood friends based on their religion.
Some of my friends still remember the Arabic alphabets and some Qur’anic quotations they memorized in Islamic schools. In the same way, my Muslim neighbors and I have never considered the “Qes timihirtbet” (church based children’s school) to be more than a kindergarten. But this feeling seems to be absent in the new generation. Today’s Muslim friends of mine are more concerned about the issues of Iraq than their country. This might not be a mistake at all, but there seems to be some danger behind their allegiance. Most books in their homes are about “how to defeat the Zionist plot” or how other religions are working day and night to destroy Islam. The weekly newspapers also exaggerate Bin Laden’s destruction on the NATO forces.
Plenty of such literature is being sold in the road that divides the mosque and the church. The books I saw on both sides while I was writing this article are enough to validate my concern on the issue.
“The Identity of Jesus is Revealed”
“For the Loss of the Scale the Gold Has Lost: Who Oppresses Women, Christianity or Islam?”
“Jesus: is he a Prophet or a Creator”
“Who Authored the Quran?”
“Answer for Muslims: The Identity of Jesus”
It is hard not to conclude that the tension between Anwar and Raguel, is representative of the entire country. Social life is weakening; ridicule for the other side seems to be strengthening. Such tensions were showcased in the recent past. The association known as “The Military Tera Retailers Share Company” conducted a meeting in the auditorium of St. Raguel Church. Because some of the members of the association were Muslims, they attended the meeting wearing their religious capes.
The leaders of the meeting asked the Muslims to remove their capes since they were in the church compound. The Muslim members then demanded to know why they were called to the meeting if this was the case, and walked out of the meeting. Some of them even got physical. Where is the patience? Over the past two years, religious tension is growing and increasingly requiring government interference. Abay Tsehaye, the prime minister’s security affairs advisor, was busy trying to solve the general increase in religious tensions.
The followers of both religions were using their religious holidays to demonstrate how strong their influences are by amassing believers in numbers. Sometimes they speak ill of each other but in an indirect way. They print threatening messages on T-shirts and spread them to their followers. They announced that this “island has no place for other religions. Seeing all of this, I seriously fear that our relationship is on the verge of ruin. The respected history of our relationship may be only history, unless Allah and God intercede for its redemption.
You brought tears to my eyes Mohamed, decades have passed now since me and my muslim and christian friends enjoyed our togetherness while being different from each other even in things of the heart like religion, as growing up kids should do. I can not tell you how nostalgic we are and scared of what is unfolding just a generation or two later. It is beyond me why the very good and commendable societal realities which we had and must build upon sadly keep on disintegrating. When will our religious,political, opportunist, activist..us mis and/or dis informed individuals start to think big, become just,tolerant and accommodating for the ultra good of the nation? Of course, there were problems that had to be addressed properly, but in our case all those who love to claim solvers of this or that are actually perpetuates at least or intensifiers and perpetrators at best in many ways to the point one does not anymore know whom to invite even to that beautiful next-door coffee time. The changes last generations were aspiring are not defensibly in the ares of loosing our beauty, where are we in agriculture,education, science, technology,industry, sport,leadership,…no excuses excuses….a misplaced smartness and very deadly one!!
Good.
I suppose this is the direct translation of the Amharic piece.You should have stated that, i assume.I found three things out of this article.
1.figurative journalism- the writer followed a figuratively descriptive form of writing.His journalism much of it (75%) was proffering a geographic and social description of Merkato and the Islam-Christian intermingle.Albeit, it is good,in fairness, for an Ethiopian reader this whole description could have been shortened.The writer could have fetched us to the core issue with little feature writing.For foreign readers the description is so filly.
2.Religious philosophy-this is one of the genres of philosophy. The writer, Mohamed Selman, should be highly commended for courageously raising this ” taboo” , ”sensitive ” and dogmatic topic.Ethiopia’s popular philosopher, Zera Yakob, has been inquiring similar,if not same kinds of religious inquires.Thus, asking such questions and investigating the metaphysical and the why of these religious conversations and changes, is only the ambition of an enterprising philosopher.
3.The Werk (Gold) of the article is peace building- tackling the popping up religious tension.As a concerned writer , you penned an important issue that could truly be of nihilist consequences.
I don’t know if the writer is aware of the unbelievable religious ”wars”, and ”activities” in the Ethiopian blogosphere and chat rooms and some radio stations.These media are becoming the main catalyzing and fomenter units of the tension.I also believe that there are other groups involved in the issue.The writer needs to look at these aspects too.
In general, the topic is so timely that it needs research and stringent focus of us.
What sort of a review is this? Who asked for it? Amazingly, the reviewer made the same mistake he is accusing of the writer. (lengthy!). He should have stopped at the first sentence of his, and saved the rest for his English class.
This is an excellent article. Thank you, Mr. Mohammed Selman. Btw, I like to read the other version if there is an Amharic version as Alamiraw alleges. Where is it?
Abdu — critiquing is not bad– that should be our culture–i don’t take your comment negatively for instance but i defend it.
You too ,you see—the critique i did is some what professional and to advise the writer for future ventures.I didn’t out of the blue say – he is ”bla” bal” ok.It ain’t either an English class rather a short literary review/criticism–this is what a civilized forum or blog world will have and is the experience elsewhere…what is wrong if we adopt it?
If u read my end – i did say it was a grand piece.
By the way if you click the ”Amharic” tab on the top right hand side of this page , you will get the translation of this story.
Mohammed
you brought me direct to my childhood,i was lucky enough to have the samexperience
that our close friendship and jockes are
still in the same way like we had it in
addis.I always join them by id and they
by easter or christmas,like our close relatives home.
God bless mother Ethiopia which is the home of christian and islam like no where in the planet that could be taken as an
example (By watching the evils who are trying to plant explosive)
as it is already said, this is a great article! Merkato is probably the only place where what you just said would ever exist!! it took me back to my school days and I was almost burst into tears! May God/Allah bless you, Ethiopia and the world!!
Ramadan Kareem my friend!!
Kidus Dawit
Readers,
I read or heard the following some where.
-”Man’s greatest blunder: is when he created God.”
-” Religion is some sort of a neurological disorder”.
I Say – whether it is in America ,India, Russia, Timbuctu or Merkhato and SO LONG AS THE CAUSE IS RELIGION – PEOPLE ARE FIGHTING OVER NOTHING.
If there was no RELIGION there would have been no Crusade, Inquisition, jihad, and all the rest.A WORLD-WITH-MINUS-ONE-BIG -PROBLEM.
Please read The End of Faith and Letter to a Christian Nation both by Sam Harris.
An innocent mind may burn them a normal one will free itself forever.
Well said Arqadeus
Closer to home the history professor Tadese Tamirat (himself a very religious person) wrote in one of his articles that it is more feasible to argue that ‘man created God in his own image’ rather than God creating man in his own image as written in the Bible. This kind of thinking would have solved much of the problem in the world today but it is espoused only by an invisible minority. We are far from the 17th and 18th century enlightenment which to a very large extent liberated Europe from metaphysics and the spiritualism of the dark ages. Unfortunately religious fundamentalism is on the ascendancy in many parts of the world not least of which is the middle east where we live. Hence I think we need to be pragmatic in dealing with religion. We will have to negotiate in their terms until such time that education rids us of all the evil associated with religion. That is why I feel this article by Muhammed is a very nice piece. It shows that in spite of the challenges we have a history of dealing with these problems and we should build on them and be careful not to be overtaken by the tide of religious fundamentalism.
Some of the teachings of the Holy Bible and Holy Quran on religious tolerance are the following:
CHRISTIANITY ABOUT TOLERANCE
“Finally, all of you, have unity of mind, sympathy, brotherly love, a tender heart, and a humble mind. Do not repay evil for evil or reviling for reviling, but on the contrary, bless, for to this you were called, that you may obtain a blessing. For “Whoever desires to love life and see good days, let him keep his tongue from evil and his lips from speaking deceit; let him turn away from evil and do good; let him seek peace and pursue it”. 1 Peter 3:8-11
“With all humility and gentleness, with patience, bearing with one another in love.” Ephesians 4:2
ISLAM ABOUT TOLERANCE
“If anyone harms (others), God will harm him, and if anyone shows hostility to others, God will show hostility to him.” Sunan of Abu-Dawood, Hadith 1625.
“Those who believe (in the Quran), and those who follow the Jewish (scriptures), and the Christians…and (all) who believe in God and the last day and work righteousness, shall have their reward with their Lord; on them shall be no fear, nor shall they grieve.” The Qur’an, 2:62
Is Woyannie cooking something in Merkato?
Thank you for the timely article.
It is very sad to read about the gowing trend of division among Ethiopians based on religion.I grew up with muslim best friends, some us are still best freinds for mre than 40 years.
In those day , religion was never an issue to choose a freind as long as our personal characters matched.
I hope and pray all ethiopians realise the importance of tolerance for the survival of our country. We all have to rememeber how we are treated when we go to muslim or christian countries, we have great country, we should not destroy it for any reason.
Let god bless Ethiopia.